Jo Chandler
Materials:
One ball of Berrocco Chinchilla
#9 dpns
#11 dpns
Gauge
3 stitches/inch
Instructions (see):
On #9 dp needles, cast on 3 sts. Inc in each st across. (6 sts)
P back.
Next row inc in each st. (12 sts)
P back.
Next row, *k1, inc in next st. Repeat from * around. (18 sts)
At this point there are enough sts to put on the rest of the dp needles and start working in the round.
Continue, k a row, work an increase row, increasing 6 sts per increase round until there are 60 sts.
Knit even until the cap is about 6 inches from the beginning and change to a rib st. I used k2, p2 on the first one and I'm doing k1, p1 on the one I'm doing now.
When you are close to the end of the yarn take a needle a couple of sizes larger and bind off in ribbing. I bound off my first hat with #11 needles.
Finish off the end. Go back and sew up the bit at the beginning and weave in the end and it's done and all the yarn is used. This fits an adult, just. But remember, chemo caps are for those whose hair is temporarily missing.
The one I'm working on right now is for a small child and I just increased up to 54 sts.
What's great about this is the yarn. It is super soft and knits up really fast. I have made several chemo caps and have washed them. I hand wash, dry flat and when dry, shake vigorously and they fluff up nicely.
March 31, 2008
March 26, 2008
Knitting Hooded Scarf
Materials:
Something fine and fluffy. Something which will look pretty and lacy in a garter stitch fabric. Needles should be big enough to give an open work look.
I used size 8 US with Hayfield "Beverly Hills" which is a light boucle blend of mohair/wool/nylon and acrylic. It took 3 balls totalling up to 540 yards.
Instructions:
Cast on 1 stitch . Increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row and slipping the last stitch, work garter stitch until you have 38-40 stitches. (Hanky point ends, therefore no fringes.)
Work straight for about 18". Then add in a second ball of your yarn and working double thickness for the side of the hoodie bit, knit another 6".
Now you need to decrease 1 stitch each row on one side of the scarf until you have reduced the number of stitches some 6-8 in total (this forms a shaping for the back of the head and stops the silly, pointy pixy look that some hoods have).
Next Row: at the side you have religiously been decreasing on you will now cast on another 36 stitches (or thereabouts, the new increases should enable you to reach the bottom of the double thickness section, 'cos you're gonna make a seam here eventually).
Work in doubled yarn a further 5" (across the back of the head). Then cast off the 36 stitches that you gained.
Next: Increasing 1 stitch each row on the shaped side, work your way back up to your original stitch count. With me so far ? Work for 6" to match the other side of the hood. Then go back to single yarn. Work 18" again and then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of each row until you have nothing left on the needles.
The last bit is to sew a seam starting from the bottom, neck edge of the hood attaching this to the double thickness side section of the hood. Having done two such seams you then have a hoodie which will fit snugly over your head. The front edge can fold back to frame the face and the hanky point ends can be tied under the chin or slung around the neck.
Eh Voila !!
Something fine and fluffy. Something which will look pretty and lacy in a garter stitch fabric. Needles should be big enough to give an open work look.
I used size 8 US with Hayfield "Beverly Hills" which is a light boucle blend of mohair/wool/nylon and acrylic. It took 3 balls totalling up to 540 yards.
Instructions:
Cast on 1 stitch . Increasing 1 stitch at the beginning of every row and slipping the last stitch, work garter stitch until you have 38-40 stitches. (Hanky point ends, therefore no fringes.)
Work straight for about 18". Then add in a second ball of your yarn and working double thickness for the side of the hoodie bit, knit another 6".
Now you need to decrease 1 stitch each row on one side of the scarf until you have reduced the number of stitches some 6-8 in total (this forms a shaping for the back of the head and stops the silly, pointy pixy look that some hoods have).
Next Row: at the side you have religiously been decreasing on you will now cast on another 36 stitches (or thereabouts, the new increases should enable you to reach the bottom of the double thickness section, 'cos you're gonna make a seam here eventually).
Work in doubled yarn a further 5" (across the back of the head). Then cast off the 36 stitches that you gained.
Next: Increasing 1 stitch each row on the shaped side, work your way back up to your original stitch count. With me so far ? Work for 6" to match the other side of the hood. Then go back to single yarn. Work 18" again and then decrease 1 stitch at the beginning of each row until you have nothing left on the needles.
The last bit is to sew a seam starting from the bottom, neck edge of the hood attaching this to the double thickness side section of the hood. Having done two such seams you then have a hoodie which will fit snugly over your head. The front edge can fold back to frame the face and the hanky point ends can be tied under the chin or slung around the neck.
Eh Voila !!
March 25, 2008
Knitting: Reversible Ribble(c) Scarf
Raye G. Schwartz
This scarf was inspired by a shawl designed by Lily Chin and featured Vogue Knitting, Winter '99. You may copy and use this pattern freely for personal use or charity knitting only, but you may not sell it or knit it, (or an adaptation of it in other yarns) for profit without written permission of the designer and Lily Chin.
Materials:
4 skeins Plymouth Indecita Alpaca, sport
Size 6 (US) needles
Gauge:
6 st/in; 8 rows/in
Finished size before blocking: 14 x 58 (your gauge may yield slightly different measurements) Note: This scarf can be manipulated by aggressive wet blocking to a longer and wider size because of its stretch-iness!
Instructions (some help on knitting):
Cast on 72 stitches and knit 4 rows of garter stitch. On last row place markers after 4 stitches, then every 16 stitches.
Begin pattern as follows:
Row 1 (and all odd rows except for cable rows as below): Sl 1, K3, (k2, p2) to last 4 stitches, k3, sl 1
Row 2 (and all even rows): P1, K3, (k2, p2) to last 4 stitches, k3, p1
Cable row A
Sl 1, K3, *slip 8 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, (k2, p2) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x from cable needle*; repeat * to * once more, k2, p2 next 16 stitches; *slip 8 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, (k2, p2) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x from cable needle*; repeat * to * once more, k2, p2 next 16 stitches; k3, sl 1.
Repeat this row on the following rows: 17, 49, 81, 113, 145, 177, 209, 241, 273, 305, 337, 369, 401, 433, 465, 497, 529, 561, 593, 625, 657, 689, 721, 753, 785, 817, 849.
Cable row B
Sl 1, K3, (k2, p2) next 16 stitches; *slip 8 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, (k2, p2) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x from cable needle*; repeat * to * once more, k2, p2 next 16 stitches; *slip 8 stitches to cable needle and hold to front, (k2, p2) 2x, (k2, p2) 2x from cable needle*; repeat * to * once more, k3, sl 1.
Repeat this row on the following rows: 33, 65, 97, 129, 161, 193, 225, 257, 289, 321, 353, 385, 417, 449, 481, 513, 545, 577, 609, 641, 673, 705, 737, 769, 801, 833, 865.
After last cable row, repeat rows 1 and 2 for another 16 rows, then end 4 rows garter and cast off.
Finishing:
Wash the scarf in hot water and shampoo or mild soap, then block aggressively and leave until thoroughly dry. This last step is essential, especially with alpaca as it has little "memory" and will pull in quite unattractively on the cable rows without first blocking.
Knitting scarf easy
March 24, 2008
Chevron And Lace Scarf
Grace Mrowicki
Materials:
I used a dark brown 50% sheep/50% alpaca yarn (sportweight, 2-ply), but you can use something else
size 5 needles
Knitting instructions (see also knittng instructions):
Cast on 45 stitches.
Rows 1, 2, 3: k1, p1 to end
4th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k7, p1, k7, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
5th Row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p5, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p5, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
6th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k4, (p1, k2) twice, p1, k4, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso** , k3, p1, k1
7th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, (k1, p3) 4 times, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
8th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k2, (p1, k4) twice, p1, k2, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
9th row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
10th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k7, p1, k7, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso**, k3, p1, k1
11th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
12th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k4, (p1, k2) twice, p1, k4, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
13th row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, (k1, p3) 4 times, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
14th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k2, (p1, k4) twice, p1, k2, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso**, k3, p1, k1
15th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
Repeat rows 4-15 until just about desired length (about 3 feet/1 meter is good), then repeat rows 1-3 and finish. Add tassels if you wish.
*What you do here: slip one stitch, knit two stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the knit together and off the needle
**What you do here: knit two stitches together, then slip one stitch. Then slip those two stitches onto the other needle and pass the slipped stitch over the knit together and off the needle, then slip the knit together back and continue on.
Knitting scarf
Materials:
I used a dark brown 50% sheep/50% alpaca yarn (sportweight, 2-ply), but you can use something else
size 5 needles
Knitting instructions (see also knittng instructions):
Cast on 45 stitches.
Rows 1, 2, 3: k1, p1 to end
4th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k7, p1, k7, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
5th Row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p5, (k1, p1) twice, k1, p5, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
6th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k4, (p1, k2) twice, p1, k4, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso** , k3, p1, k1
7th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, (k1, p3) 4 times, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
8th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k2, (p1, k4) twice, p1, k2, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
9th row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
10th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k7, p1, k7, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso**, k3, p1, k1
11th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
12th row: k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1, p4, k4, (p1, k2) twice, p1, k4, p4, k1, p1, k2, yf, k3, yf, k2, p1, k1
13th row: k1, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k2, p2, (k1, p3) 4 times, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p7, k1, p1, k1
14th row: k1, p1, k3, sl1, k2tog, psso*, k3, p1, k1, p4, k2, (p1, k4) twice, p1, k2, p4, k1, p1, k3, k2tog, sl1, psso**, k3, p1, k1
15th row: k1, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k2, p2, k1, p1, (k1, p5) twice, k1, p1, k1, p2, k2, p1, k1, p5, k1, p1, k1
Repeat rows 4-15 until just about desired length (about 3 feet/1 meter is good), then repeat rows 1-3 and finish. Add tassels if you wish.
*What you do here: slip one stitch, knit two stitches together, then pass the slipped stitch over the knit together and off the needle
**What you do here: knit two stitches together, then slip one stitch. Then slip those two stitches onto the other needle and pass the slipped stitch over the knit together and off the needle, then slip the knit together back and continue on.
Knitting scarf
March 11, 2008
Easy Striped Triangular Scarf

Designed by Barbara Breiter
This is an easy stockinette triangular shaped striped dress scarf with a garter stitch border knit in. It's knit by casting on a small number of sts and increasing to a certain point, then decreasing. Because there are more rows than stitches in any given number of stockinette stitches and rows, it grows disproportionately and does not result in a perfect triangle. However, garter stitch does grow at the same rate. This helps the scarf to maintain a triangular shape that naturally curves to fit the body. The design also results in stripes that end up in diagonal directions, neither entirely vertical nor horizontal.
Level:
Beginner
Yarn:
One skein Waikiki by Crystal Palace Yarns (70% Rayon, 30% Cotton, 50 grams, 105 yards)-color #2862 or your choice
One skein Breeze by Crystal Palace Yarns (100% Mercerized Cotton, 50 grams, 110 yards)-color #8990 or your choice
Needles:
Size 11 (8 mm)
Gauge:
16st=4 inches/10 cm
Note: This is sport weight yarn knit on large needles; the result is a very loose and lacy effect.

Instructions
With Breeze, cast on 4 sts.
K 2 rows.
Row 3 (right side): With Waikiki, k1, k into front and back of next st, k2
Row 4: With Waikiki, sl1 as if to p, k4
Row 5: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k into front and back of next st, k3
Row 6: sl1 as if to p, k5
Row 7: With Waikiki, sl1 as if to p, k into front and back of next st, k4
Row 8: sl1 as if to p, k2, p1, k3
Row 9: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k into front and back of next st, k across
Row 10: sl1 as if to p, k2, p2, k3
Row 11: With Waikiki, sl1 as if to p, k into front and back of next st, k across
Row 12: sl1 as if to p, k2, p across to last 3 sts, k3
Continue in this manner until piece measures 23". End ready to begin odd row with Breeze.
Row 1: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, ssk, k across
Row 2: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k2, p across to last 3 sts, k3
Row 3: With Waikiki, sl1 as if to p, ssk, k across
Row 4: With Waikiki, sl1 as if to p, k2, p across to last 3 sts, k3
Continue in this manner until 6 stitches remain (last row will be sl1 as if to p, k5 as there will be no stitches to p across).
With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, ssk, k4.
Next Row: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k5
Next Row: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, ssk, k3
Next Row: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k4
Next Row: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, ssk, k2
Next Row: With Breeze, sl1 as if to p, k3
Bind off all stitches.
February 16, 2008
Knitting scarf: Abbreviations
More information is available on knitting instructions - Abbreviations
beg begin
BO bind off
CC contrasting color
CO cast on, cast off
cm centimeter
cn cable needle
cont continue
dec decrease
dpn double pointed needles
inc increase
k or K knit
k1, s1, psso knit one, slip one, pass slipped stitch over
k2tog knit 2 together
k2tog tbl knit 2 together through back loop
MC main color
M1 make one
p or P purl
p2tog purl 2 together
p2tog tbl purl 2 together through back loop
pat pattern
pm place marker
psso pass slip stitch over
rem remaining rep repeat
RS right side
rnd round
SSK slip 1, slip 1, knit two together
sl slip
sl 1, k1, psso slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch, stocking stitch
tbl through back loop(s)
tog together
WS wrong side
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front
yfon yarn forward over needle
yfrn yarn forward and round needle
yo yarn over
yon yarn over needle
yrn yarn round needle
* repeat instructions following or between asterisk as indicated
[ ] repeat instructions inside brackets as indicated
Knitting instructions
Knitting scarf
beg begin
BO bind off
CC contrasting color
CO cast on, cast off
cm centimeter
cn cable needle
cont continue
dec decrease
dpn double pointed needles
inc increase
k or K knit
k1, s1, psso knit one, slip one, pass slipped stitch over
k2tog knit 2 together
k2tog tbl knit 2 together through back loop
MC main color
M1 make one
p or P purl
p2tog purl 2 together
p2tog tbl purl 2 together through back loop
pat pattern
pm place marker
psso pass slip stitch over
rem remaining rep repeat
RS right side
rnd round
SSK slip 1, slip 1, knit two together
sl slip
sl 1, k1, psso slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped st over
st(s) stitch(es)
St st stockinette stitch, stocking stitch
tbl through back loop(s)
tog together
WS wrong side
wyib with yarn in back
wyif with yarn in front
yfon yarn forward over needle
yfrn yarn forward and round needle
yo yarn over
yon yarn over needle
yrn yarn round needle
* repeat instructions following or between asterisk as indicated
[ ] repeat instructions inside brackets as indicated
Knitting instructions
Knitting scarf
January 31, 2008
knitting dresser scarf
Dresser Scarf
Knitting scarf
Designed by Barbara Breiter
By casting on additional stitches and working more rows, this would make a beautiful rectangular shawl as well. The pattern uses a multiple of 9 stitches, plus 4 sts on each side done in seed stitch as a border.

Gauge:
21.5 sts = 4" over pat st unblocked
Materials:
Size 7 needles US (4.5 mm)
click to enlarge
Yarn:
I used a handspun finger weight rayon yarn that was nubby and variegated yarn to make this. A total of 6.5 ounces was used. If you use a fiber that weighs more, such as cotton, you will need an additional amount.
Size:
16"x 31" unblocked
19"x 37" blocked
Knitting scarf instructions:
CO 80 sts.
Work seed st 4 rows.

Row 1 and odd WS rows: Seed st 4 sts, p across, last 4 sts seed st
Row 2: Seed st 4 sts, k2, k2tog, yo, k1, yo, ssk, k2, last 4 sts seed st
Row 4: Seed st 4 sts, k1, k2tog, yo, k3, yo, ssk, k1, last 4 sts seed st
Row 6 & 8: Seed st 4 sts, k2tog, yo, k5, yo, ssk, last 4 sts seed st
Row 10: Seed st 4 sts, k3, yo, sl2 knitwise-k1-p2sso, yo, k3, last 4 sts seed st
Repeat rows 1-10 31 times or until about 30" from beginning or desired length.
Work seed st 4 rows. BO.
Block to approximately 19" x 37" to open up lace pattern.
Knitting scarf
See also Knitting instructions for beginers
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